Friday, March 19, 2010

Either you will
go through this door
or you will not go through.
If you go through
there is always the risk
of remembering your name.
Things look at you doubly
and you must look back
and let them happen.
If you do not go through
it is possible
to live worthily
to maintain your attitudes
to hold your position
to die bravely

but much will blind you,
much will evade you,
at what cost who knows?
The door itself
makes no promises.
It is only a door.
Adrienne Rich, "Prospective Immigrants Please Note"


Tuesday, March 9, 2010

There is nothing more full of life than a group of young men galvanized for a mission. There was much laughter and back slapping and widespread enjoyment of their quest to deliver the statue, although I imagine a lot of them were hoarse the next day.
At the water's edge the enthusiasm waned just a bit, as some of the young men had forgotten to roll up their pants legs. Relief came in the form of those already in the river, who helped make sure she reached her destination. It took a bit of pushing to get her going.

Life on the Ghat. As you can see, another statue, also draped in flower garlands, awaits her turn.


The river banks were covered in debris from earlier launchings. When the monsoons arrive in the summer, much of this gets carried downstream. In recent years there has been some effort to improve the contamination of the Ganges but the issue is a delicate one. For many it is so revered and customs regarding its use not only in religious ceremonies but also in daily life so ingrained, making any changes will have to be carefully orchestrated.

The largest Hindu Temple in Calcutta.




Saturday, March 6, 2010

These flowers are not in the flower market, but at the entrance to the cemetery in Delhi. It was one of the few western style flower stalls I saw. The rest were either in shops or more often, on the blankets of vendors on the street.


This vendor at the wholesale market has just about sold all his supply for the morning.


The closeups of the flower garlands simply do not do them justice. The fragrance, the vibrancy of the yellows and oranges against the brown dirt is hard to describe.

Bundles of marigolds fresh from the villages. The garlands are used to drape the pictures of saints and family ancestors. While I was in India, there was a huge scandal going on in West Bengal because a former highly favored governor's portrait was not draped in preparation for the inaugural ceremonies of the new incoming governor. That small oversight provided days of political fodder for the newspapers and media.


The use of flowers spills beyond religious devotion and permeates everyday life. These marigolds were nestled with votive candles in a bowl of water in my hotel. I began to look forward to seeing each morning and evening what the staff would put out. It was different each day.



Can you imagine coming home to something like this every evening?.....(!)





Tuesday, March 2, 2010

Here are the houseboats at the river dock. Our guide, Mitra, is in the striped sweater to the left and the special river guide, in the pink shirt, to the right. We would soon acquire a third guide en route, whose expertise was the wildlife at the reserve. If you look carefully, at the right end of the first boat you will see a small cubicle. No it is not the head, it is the kitchen. No sooner had we taken off and settled in than all sorts of commotion could be heard coming from it: pots clanging, water being poured (we worried initially about from where to where) and at one point, a bit of heated conversation. After a bit, everything was sorted out, peace prevailed and lunch was served...
In India, the term 'curry' means a sauce, not a spice, as it does here. There are countless versions of sauce as various as their are cooks and ranging from very mild to spicy, spicy hot, depending I guess you could say, on the temperament of the cook.

This is thatching straw on it's way either to market or to a job site. In the rural areas, homes are often made of mud and roofed with straw. I was struck over and over by the ingenious and adventurous method of hauling products. Trucks,bikes,wagons,lorries or boats are stacked beyond the believability point with goods. Trucks with goods 2 1/2 times the height of the truck were commonplace as well as men and women carrying loads on their heads equal to their height.

The majority of India is Hindu. Devotion to the practice of this faith is evidenced by the appearance of altars everywhere--on street corners, on taxi dashboards, on farm stands and here, along the river bank. Some are permanent, others only temporary, being constructed overnight for a particular deity's festival holiday. All are revered and dressed with fresh flowers daily.

Living on a lake I could not help but feel a kinship with the river water, the boats and setting sun.

At mid day the sun became too bright on one side of the boat, so our guide hung a shade to filter the light. The gentle flapping in the breeze of the fabric was as soothing as a lullaby. Everyone at one point or another, dozed off.